Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and travelers alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old culinary traditions and lively gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many share the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently defined its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – little-known gems that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and involved. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but note that their children are reluctant to master the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will motivate more people around the world to learn these tales and travel to the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
